Myrtle Beach |
Our exodus to Florida was delayed a few weeks so that Dave
would be able to travel gall-less (gall bladderless, that is). Pre-vs-post surgery has left him recuperating
well and feeling lots better. With that, we arrived in Myrtle Beach on November
8th with a pending appointment at Camping World on the 9th.
With expected repairs to take 2-3 days we were grateful that the service
technicians could do their voodoo in one, which gave us a chance to check out
Murrells Inlet and downtown Myrtle.
There is a charming stretch of highway that nears Charleston
as we travel southbound; it is known locally as Sweetgrass Basket Makers
Highway. Basket weavers, direct descendants seventh and eighth generation
daughters, aunts and granddaughters, sit alongside the roadside at disheveled
stands working a spoon handle coiling grass into graceful works of art that
have a similar smell to freshly mown hay. Basket-making is a matter of patience, skill
and technique. The sweetgrass is harvested from the shoreline in the spring and
summer and allowed to dry. However, the natural supply of sweetgrass has diminished
because of private development of land where the women are unable to harvest
their forage that threatens the natural resources of harvesting.
Lake Jasper Campground |
As we journey on along the South Carolina coast it becomes
more apparent of the destruction of Hurricane Matthew, which really messed us
up with campgrounds; we had reservations at Parris Island Campground but had to
change to nearby Camp Lake Jasper, about a half hour down the road. A newly
opened campground the sites are spacious, pet friendly and easy on-easy off at
exit 8 I-95.
USMC Yellow Footprints |
While leveled on site 60 we visited Parris Island three
days, spending each one absorbed in the powdered sandy soil of the depot where,
for over 100 years, boys have become men. Just as Dave and his platoon stepped
for that first time on those yellow footprints fifty years ago, these once
strangers became an element of one after 8 weeks of intense, critical training,
then being fragmented to serve their tour(s) in Viet Nam.
No matter what; always attention |
We observed four
platoons preparing to graduate, to become Marines, at the end of the week. By Thursday afternoon on the parade deck these
young men and women would snap in response to orders, cadence with exactness.
Their pride saturated the air and ground. And as these Marines were graduating
we saw another group of young men being marched to their barracks, not yet
receiving the infamous haircut, not yet realizing that this decision to stand
on those yellow footprints would be the unmatched decisiveness of their lives.
Hurricane Matthew damage on Hilton Head |
One day we ventured eastward to the coastlines of Bluffton
and Hilton Head. Bluffton on a Sunday morning was a sleepy town with its rural
church parking lots filled so we scooted outta there before the masses came out
of their masses. On both sides of the highway we are surrounded by low-tidal
salt marshes. At sea level there is not
much to see except weaving channels through the cordgrass where snowy white
egrets, great blue and tri-colored herons patiently watch for their next
appetizer. Once on the island we venture
our way to Harbour Town Lighthouse and along the way realize the devastation of
Hurricane Matthew. It was estimated that
nearly 2,000 trees met the fate of the hurricane-force winds that battered the coastline.
Restoration of the properties will take some time, and with nature it will be
restored as well.
One of the most iconic emblems of the south is the southern
live oak. These strong tough trees can be measured in 50+ foot circumference and
centuries old in birthdays. Although these formidable trees are anchored deep
some were tumbled over by the hurricane winds.
No matter where we have driven these past few weeks, we have
found pieces of history, plantations, and classic symbols of the old south that
seem to have returned to the dust of the earth. It is disheartening to see the
skeletons of these antebellum, once a visible symbol of prosperous land owners.
Many other former plantations have become golf courses, interstates and residential
communities.
On Sunday, the 20th, we packed up and moved along
to Mayport Florida, where we set down on site 13 at Osprey Cove RV Park on the
Naval Station base, where we had rock star parking facing the protected harbor,
that is home to the Navy’s Fourth Fleet. While we were docked at the base we cruised
along A1A south and found ourselves in St. Augustine. Having barely survived
the squashed traffic on narrow streets, passing beautiful architecture of what
was once an opulent gilded-age hotel is now home of Flagler College, we found
ourselves at Mojo BBQ , sitting on their patio and enjoying the Old City’s
sunshine we lunched on some very good bar-b-q from their own smokehouse.
We circled the park where the Fountain of
Youth is located. Of course, there is a fee to go in and get a sample of “the
Fountain”, which is probably someone in the back room filling up bottles from a
garden hose. We wound our way through narrower avenues being noisy of how and
where the locals live and were finally able to access the Bridge of Lions, a
draw bridge that spans the intercoastal waterway and connects to our goal,
Anastasia Island. A barrier island, Anastasia is home to a 165’ lighthouse,
which has only 210 steps to reach the light lamp. We stayed on terra firma,
looked up and took pictures. Returning to our rig alongside the coastline,
there were many homes affected by the recent hurricane and earth movers were
seen on the beaches undertaking the task of restructuring the beach line.
Onward and southward we aimed for Fort Pierce, where we sat
on site 130 at Treasure Coast that is conveniently located near I-95 and the
Florida Turnpike. This is a wonderful park for big rigs; sites are concrete
pads with lawn and trees and shrubs. While at FTP we visited with a school chum
of Dave’s and her significant other. We had a wonderful time discovering nearby
barrier islands and restaurants.
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