March 4 2014-Mardi Gras Tuesday
This morning we leave Florida City when it is 81 and blue,
blue skies on our way to central Florida’s Rainbow Resort. This will be our
third year at Rainbow, where we enjoy the orange-groved area, and especially
our time with Avis and Jim Brown.
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On our way northbound on Krome Ave we will be
crossing over several main intersections that travel east-west (or west-east,
depending on whether you will be seeing a sunrise or sunset) including Tamiani
Trail (Rte 41) and Alligator Alley (rte 75). How sad to see the refuse and
litter strewn along the highway as we cross the intersection of Tamiani and
Krome. Everything from sofas no longer
suitable for sitting, to refrigerators unable to cool your beer and tires
de-treaded. I doubt these several miles
of rubbish fell off the proverbial cabbage truck; appears more that this garbage
was pushed off an F150. As we
cruise-control along 27 we are fringing the most eastern boundaries of the
Everglades. Turkey vultures are perched
on barren trees waiting for their roadkill buffet. A perfect perspective of massive power lines
stretch out across the sawgrass prairie.
We are curious as to the extensive canal system that runs
parallel with the highway and curls its way transversely through the sawgrass.
As a result of years of hurricane devastations, floods and drying marsh lands
the Army Corps of Engineers began its construction of water management through
the Everglades, however, their initial formation caused extensive
contamination, unbalanced ecosystems, and re-directing of wetlands for
agricultural purposes. And, of course, the lobbyists became involved on the
political and economic issues. What was, at one time, a natural course of water
flow south to Florida Bay and wildlife habitats, is now regulated and habitats
abandoned.
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We pass by the southern entrance to Lake Okeechobee which is
about 35 miles long and 29 miles wide and averaging twelve foot in depth. The lake’s
rim height does not allow us to see the massive body of water, which is the
seventh largest freshwater lake in the country and about half the size of Rhode
Island. I wondered about how the lake
became a lake. It seems just a few years ago, 6,000 actually, wetlands covered
this region and the lake area was a shallow, dry depression. The water table in
Florida began to rise (I think this is when Noah was building the A-boat) and
there was more rain. After several more thousand years (give or take another
few thousand) the lake began to form and the thousands of years of limestone
deposits created a natural dike until it overflowed into the Everglades. The
catastrophic hurricanes of 1926 and ’28, killing thousands, crossed over the
lake creating a storm surge over the dike. Afterward, the Army Corps of
Engineers designed the construction of channels, levees and gates.
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There is a sugariness in the air. Across the acres of cane
stalks we can see plumes of smoke where the canes are being fired up, gathered
and dumped in collection bins that will be carted to the nearby Domino
processing plants. Very appropriately, the Clewiston school athletic field is
named
Cane Field.
From sweet fields to sweet calf faces, we pass by the Graham
Dairy near Moore Haven. The dairy herd counts near 3,000 head on almost 2, 200
acres and is one of the top dairy producers in the state.
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As we nudge along 27 we skirt through small towns and
villages, one of them named Venus. As we go by Venus there are two very
noticeable features: one is we are glad we didn’t blink; two is the elevation
to a minor hill is noted. We are now 112 feet above sea level. The landscape is
becoming greener and trees are taller. Orange groves extending miles and miles
lend the wonderful, sweet scent of orange blossoms. Three hurricanes in 2004
devasted nearly 40% of the citrus crops across Florida. The growers are still
recovering. And now they face another challenge, citrus greening, a bacteria
that is spread by a tiny aphid. The fruit of the tree does not ripen and mature
to be harvested on these trees that are decades old.
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After four hours on the road we arrive in Frostproof, named
to entice citrus growers to own land in the area, having never had a frost,
only to have had a killing frost a few years later. Settling onto site 400 for
the next month we will be visiting old haunts, new haunts and enjoying more of
sunny Florida.